Yellow
pages in hand and headlamps set to "enlighten" we plunge on, tracking
down a Kung Fu school with an odd looking yellow pages add. We
arrive to discover a quiet, cultish place, probably very similar
to scientology centres. The walls are brightly painted with a
giant mural of the sun. Students strike exotic, impractical looking
animal poses while the shave-headed instructor looks on, occasionally
critiquing their crane stance; a pair of blank-eyed, twenty-something
youths with the dangerous look of religious zealots work out in
the small, accompanying gym. Reece and I mutter quietly about
how one could effectively fight anyone while balanced on one leg
and trying to form a snake with one's arms. The instructor momentarily
leaves his class to arrange the sale of illegal nunchuks to someone
who wanders in off the street. Attempts are made, in front of
a wall of speakers that surrounds a giant screen TV, to sign us
up for a private appointment, to discuss the school and possibly
sell us some of the "Choose the Way of the Brave Warrior" t-shirts
that everyone is wearing. Sensing pressure sales tactics we flee
into the early winter night.
...Reece
and I are anxious to meet people who have found sword
fighting to be a practical and necessary skill in their
day to day lives...
|
A little
discombobulated and possessed by that eerie feeling of surrealism
that is commonly associated with powerful hangovers, we elect
to venture next to a karate school for something a little more
down to earth. We wash up on suburbia's benighted shore and drift
into a deeply eastern sounding school where we meet the instructor,
a well-mannered white guy in his early twenties. He's a black
belt. A first-degree black belt. As a point of reference, learning
martial arts from a first-degree black belt is like learning surgery
from a nurse - they've got a sense of what's going on, can point
you in the right direction, but can never make you into anything
more than a back alley abortionist. We exchange friendly banter
then flee to a nearby bar, defeated for the evening, to mull over
the state of the union.
Ok, welcome
to checkpoint three. You're making excellent time but I'm afraid
we've lost the daylight now so we'd better keep moving. I'm not
sure how long the moon will last and these dense, coastal forests
are hell after dark. Personally, I won't feel good until we're
back at the car - stay close, ok?
We do
a little web surfing before the second sortie and happen upon
a Ninjitsu school. It's a surprising discovery and positively
reeks of entertainment. The site emphasises how the school focuses
strictly on teaching practical fighting techniques for use in
real life situations, and accompanies this with photos of hooded
men emerging from clouds of smoke, carrying nets and spears. According
to the website, the school "offers a realistic approach to self-defense
that utilises the techniques that are effective in real life situations,"
which it points out, includes sword training. Needless to say,
Reece and I are anxious to meet people who have found sword fighting
to be a practical and necessary skill in their day to day lives,
so we jet over.
The ninja
school does not disappoint. We drop in and discover a small studio
in an office complex behind a strip mall, jammed full of guys
in ninja suits. Well, to be honest, they weren't wearing the masks,
but I'll bet they were close by. The walls are covered in racks
of wooden practice swords. While the class launches into a warm-up
routine that seems to involve a lot of falling and landing poorly,
the head instructor gives Reece and I a spirited and well-rehearsed
sales presentation on why our current martial arts school, along
with those of almost everyone else on earth, is crap. He explains
how we are all being taught "demonstration techniques" while his
school teaches practical, real techniques for today's modern fighting
man, with a heavy emphasis on sword fighting. I mention that I
don't know anyone who as ever been attacked with a sword, but
get no response.
We move
on to view a couple of other Kung Fu schools and quickly come
to the conclusion that, for reasons we cannot identify, Kung Fu
instructors never speak above a whisper. In an incense-laden training
facility in the southern reaches of the city, Reece and I strain
to hear one Kung Fu master whispering in a loud and busy training
area. While he talks, his heavily ornamented head repeatedly strikes
a small gong hanging from the wall. He pretends not to notice
and we return the favour. Around the time that this particular
tattooed master begins to take credit for the name "Fight Club,"
we politely take our leave. It takes two days to get the smell
of incense out of my coat.